Quick starting point
Use this orientation tool to identify the opening conversation. It does not calculate sail dimensions or replace a sailmaker’s design work.
1. Boat and rig
- Make, model, year, hull number and home port
- Length, displacement, ballast and keel type
- Mast, boom and rig type; note every modification
- Forestay, inner stay, runners, backstay and bowsprit details
- Furler, mast track, cars, slides and boom hardware
- Current rig measurements and who will verify them
- Photos of all attachment and sheeting points
Describe existing problems: weather helm, excessive heel, poor pointing, difficult tacks, reefing friction, poor visibility or chafe. A new sail should not reproduce them.
2. Sailing program and crew
- Day sailing, coastal, offshore, liveaboard, charter or racing
- Typical and maximum crew; who handles reefing and foredeck work
- Common wind strengths and angles
- Night sailing and short-handed operation
- Preferred sail changes, furlers, socks or reefing methods
- Storage location, annual use and high-UV exposure
- Planned passages or race categories that change the requirement
Inventory map
List every current sail with type, age, material, approximate condition and intended wind range. Then name the gaps. “Need more speed” is vague; “need a manageable sail for 60–110° apparent in 8–16 knots” gives a designer a useful target.
3. Request a complete specification
- Finished sail dimensions, area and intended wind range
- Cloth manufacturer, product code, weight, fibre and protective layers
- Panel layout or load-path construction
- Reef number, depth and reinforcement
- Luff, leech and foot controls
- Battens, pockets, cars, slides, rings and other hardware
- Furling system, cable, luff pad and UV cover
- Corner, chafe and spreader protection
- Numbers, draft stripes, telltales, windows and sail bag
- Measurement, tax, freight, fitting and sea-trial inclusions
- Delivery timing, warranty and adjustment process
4. Before approval
- Resolve every blank or ambiguous line in the quote.
- Confirm final measurements against the actual boat.
- Review hardware compatibility and lead angles.
- Confirm UV-cover colour, side and furling direction.
- Check payment stages, delivery point and acceptance terms.
- Keep the approved drawing and specification with the invoice.
5. Commissioning and acceptance
Hoist the sail in controlled conditions. Check head, tack and clew clearances; luff attachment; sheet and reef leads; batten and car movement; furling; draft position; leech stability and visibility. Exercise each reef and handling system rather than treating full-hoist appearance as the only test.
Photograph the new sail on both tacks with controls recorded. Note any adjustment in writing and arrange a follow-up while the sail is new. Store material and hardware details for later service.
Frequently asked questions
How many sailmaker quotes should I get?
Three detailed quotes against one written brief usually give a useful comparison. Fewer may be enough when you have an established loft relationship; more broad, incomplete quotes can add noise rather than insight.
Should I measure the boat myself?
Use the sailmaker’s process. Critical dimensions should be verified on the actual boat, ideally by the loft or a competent rigger. Manufacturer data is only a check.
What matters most for Australian UV?
Protection is a system: correctly oriented sacrificial covers, protected stitching and webbing, suitable cloth, dry storage and regular inspection. Read the regional conditions guide.
Is a heavier sail always more durable?
No. Fibre, weave or laminate structure, panel alignment, flex resistance, reinforcement and finishing all matter. Excess weight can also make handling harder.
When should I buy used instead?
A used sail can work when its verified dimensions, hardware and shape match the boat and enough structural life remains. Inspect it using the used sail guide.
Reviewed 14 September 2026